Casa del Capitan is a masterly example of the architecture of Dalí-era Cadaqués. The small Catalan port still bears the mark of a teeming period, when architects drawn by the “transcendental” aura of Salvador Dalí and the great artists around him succeeded in giving form to the hedonistic, pared-back life they led. The house is set apart, and its plan discreetly follows the contours of its promontory. Everything remains intact half a century on: the play of light and shade, the easy flow from one room to the next, the extreme simplicity of forms and materials, and, outside, the vast blue expanse. With so much beauty to contemplate, doing nothing here is already a full-time occupation…